DROP 28
Drop 29 – FIFTY SHADES OF PINOT
WITH Champagne Doussot- Bourdot, Jérémy Carteret & Maison Glandien
Same grape. Three completely different rooms in the same house.
That’s what this drop is really about. Pinot Noir gets called „elegant“ and „subtle“ so often that people forget how many faces it actually has. So I decided to prove it — with three producers who couldn’t be more different if they tried.
Tino Kuban’s L’Ouverture 2024 is joy, plain and simple. Juicy, fresh, red-fruited, made from two barrels and two ancient plots in Aluze — the kind of wine that disappears from the glass faster than you planned.
Billy Doussot’s Coteaux Champenois rouge takes the same grape somewhere completely different: a still red from the heart of Champagne, raw and direct, with nothing to hide behind.
And then there’s the one I’ve been sitting on for weeks, almost too excited to talk about it: Jérémy Carteret’s Rosé 2024, from the same mythical Grandes Carelles vineyard as one of his most coveted reds. 120 bottles exist. Anywhere. Ever. And they’re all right here.
Three glasses, one grape, zero overlap.
Inside the box
Coteau Rouge 2022 – Champagne Doussot-Bourdot
Coteau Rouge 2022 is Billy Doussot’s most grounded, „terre à terre“ expression of the Côte des Bar — a single, carefully selected Pinot Noir parcel in Loches-sur-Ource. True to the domaine’s philosophy, it’s made without additives, natural fermentation, long ageing in oak on lees, no fining, no filtration. The result is fluid and energetic, carried by a living freshness and a savoury texture that never gets heavy.
This is a frank, vibrant red, deeply anchored in its soil — not a Champagne pretending to be something else, just serious Coteaux Champenois Rouge with real character.
Drinking recommendation: Now!
Rose 2024 – Jérémy Carteret
This Rosé 2024 is a blend of 30% Les Grandes Carelles, the same mythical 1937-planted Pommard Pinot Noir vineyard behind one of Jérémy’s most sought-after reds, and 70% white, a mix of Aligoté Doré and Aligoté from Rully, all vinified together with plenty of lees. It’s aged for 22 months in a Stockinger feuillette.
There isn’t a lot of information out there about this wine and honestly, that’s part of the appeal. What I can tell you is that it has wonderful length and a super dense reduction that keeps unfolding the longer it sits in the glass.
Only 120 bottles exist in the entire world. And every last one of them is in this box.
Drinking recommendation: Give it a year to unfold further
L’Ouverture Rouge 2024 – Maison Glandien
L’Ouverture 2024 comes from two small Pinot Noir vineyards in Aluze — one planted in 1954, the other in 1978 — both west-facing on Oxfordian marl soils. The grapes go in the morning or afternoon straight into a cooling chamber overnight, sorted twice, whole-cluster into tank for a semi-carbonic maceration of 10 to 14 days. Punchdowns, hot fermentation temperatures of 32 to 35°C, long post-fermentation soaks, then a basket press after 20 to 25 days before the wine goes into barrel with some lees. No sulphur, native yeast, no fining, no filtration.
Only 2 barrels of 500L were produced. That’s it. That’s the whole wine.
This is Tino Kuban doing what he does best — taking two old, quiet vineyards and turning them into something with real identity.
Drinking recommendation: Now or give it a year to unfold further